My SLK 230 (2003) is having computer issues, so I'm taking it in for repairs this week.

Then, all of a sudden yesterday, my remote wouldn't open the doors. I unlocked the car manually and put the key in the ignition and it did nothing (other than set off the alarm). Later in the day, the alarm just started going off, so I disconnected the battery.

I am assuming that the car wouldn't start because the alarm system won't shut off with the remote (nor when I turn the key in the ignition).

So, here's the question. How can I disable the security system but still drive the car (just to get it to the repair shop, which is too far away to easily have towed)?

Appreciate any help!

 

Good question.
Since the system is design to ensure security I believe the answer is that you can't. (at least simply).
For instance (in some territories eg. UK) even the siren is fitted with an internal battery so that if it is removed from the car it will go off and you can't stop it although it is not connected!!
Since both Remote (DAS) and Ignition (EIS) have gone down the common link is the Remote. Since your car is 2003 have you tried some new batteries in the Remote? This might just save you a big tow bill. On the other hand it may not.
Stuart

 

Wish that were the case -- I've tried my second key and it didn't work either.

I can't even get the car out of "Park" and into neutral to tow it right now (it's in an underground garage, so it's going to be tough for a tow truck to get to it).

 

Hi,
You tried new batteries in the key you normally use?

The battery on the car itself is OK. I guess it is since you said the alarm went off. Check the headlamps are bright.

The problem is the interface between the remote/key (fob batteries) and the DAS Driver Authority system (module failure or lack of power).

Possible that the DAS could have gone but unlikely.

Sorry I can't help more.

Stuart

 

Appreciate every bit of advice I can get on this one.

I will try to replace the battery in the remote, just in case. But nothing in the car is working at all. When the alarm was going off, the headlights weren't flashing, nothing lit up at all.

Based on what I was told at the service station the other day, the computer is pretty much shot. Scheduled time to take it in and have it replaced this week. So, I guess it is probably related to that, although it seems odd that the car had been running right up until Saturday morning and now absolutely nothing is working (except the alarm). Perhaps when the service station looked at the computer last week, it pushed it over the edge.

Anyone know how I can get the car out of Park and into Neutral (autmatic transmission)? It won't budge, even when I put the key in the ignition.

 

.....But nothing in the car is working at all.......What do you mean by this.

This is what would be expected if the main car battery was dead.
The gear selector is designed NOT to move unless the ignition is on.
The warning lights won't illuminate without the ignition on.
The DAS won't work with a flat battery in either the car or the Remore Control. The DAS enables a security handshake between the key and car.

No you can't bypass the security system. That's the result of a good design. If you could bypass it it wouldn't be much use as a security device!.

Have you checked the state of the vehicle battery as I requested by turning on the headlampsON (rotary switch) to see if they shine brightly. If they are not bright you have a flat main battery.

If the main car battery is OK next change the Remote Control fob battery.

Unless you have done these things and shown that it makes no difference you would appear to be getting unduly concerned without reason.

.....the computer is pretty much shot......

What a load of rubbish.
What evidence do they have for this statement?
Yes there may be pending Diagnostic Codes but this doesn't mean the computer is shot. Which computer anyway. Engine/Trans, ATA, ABS, ASR, ESP, Cruise, Instrument pack etc etc.,

Strikes me you are being set up.

Stuart

 

Car battery may be dead if the siren is on a different power source -- the siren had no trouble, but nothing else would turn on. Didn't get anything when I tried the ignition, nor did the headlamps come on when I tried them - no lights, nothing. So, you may be right, it may be a totally dead battery (just an odd coincidence two days after the diagnosis on the computer?)

With the ignition key in the starter, I would expect that there would be some way to manually shut down the immobilizer. Otherwise, wouldn't this be a problem any time a battery went dead? Got to be some way to at least put the car into neutral? Dunno, but I would have thought there was some way to do that.

I am taking the car to a shop owned by a friend of mine (the dealer made the initial diagnosis), to be sure I'm not being taken. But the way it was described, something (can't remember what) leaked, saturated the electrical system and made its way to the engine control computer. Only downside is that his shop is about 30 miles away, so I was hoping to be able to drive it there rather than have it towed.

Perhaps I'll just try to get the car jumped and see if that kicks everything back on. If not, I'll have to bite the bullet and have it towed, I suppose.

Thanks again - I'm a bit ignorant when it comes to automotive issues (especially with newer cars).

 

I say again there is no way to shut the alarm down.
Likewise you can have problems with a flat battery if you don't have a real key to get into the hood/trunck.
However MB provide a terminal where a jump can be made if you can't get to the battery.

Jump the battery (under the hood in your SLK) and with luck your electronic key will start working again so that you can turn the alarm off which is the same thing as turning the ignition on.
You will then get all the services you require should come back to life an d enable you to start the car or at least get it out of Park (remember you also have to push the brake pedal.

If the engine computer is shot because it is full of water there is no way the engine will run.

Somebody is taking you for a ride since you drove the car home since their diagnosis. It is possible that the engine computer has got wet and done it no good but it must still be functioning!

Take care you get the polarity of the terminals correct when you jump it.

Stuart

 

I have heard "once" of water getting into the comp box thru a cable sheath but not on an SLK?
You must try the main battery as suggested or you are wasting our time here.
On the later SLKs I believe you can move lever from park by pulling up the cover around gearstick and pressing down on a detent at rear of gear lever track.

Also open computer box (2 crosshead screws and check for water (torch).
PSE in trunk may also have water in it.

Bazzle

 

Sir,
My wife's SLK 230 (2003) is having the exact same problems right now. Her car is stuck in a parking garage as well in SF. Did you ever find out what happened to your car? What was the fix and how much?

Mike
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