I noticed when I was replacing my shift linkage bushing that the overload switch was leaking. I also had an intermittent problem of the car cutting out when I would kick the car into passing gear. The last time I had this issue it turned out to be the fuel pump, but that isn't that old. this time it looks like the overload switch. you need to replace the little O ring that goes on it too, it should come with the o-ring if you buy new. The nice thing about it is that it is easy to get at. The bad thing is how hard it is the get off. Who ever put it on in the first place must of used a breaker bar with a 10 foot extension. I had to use a floor jack to push up against the handle of the breaker bar to get it loose. I had to grind my 36 mm socket to get it to fit the old switch so it wouldn't round the edges of the switch. it was a real challenge. anything for my baby though. The leak is fixed and after going out for test drive no cutouts, so far. It's located just ahead of the shift modulator. I also found a banjo fitting next to the overload switch a bit loose and leaking slightly too.

 

opening a can of worms. with all that I've done so far on the 722.5 I found a 12mm bolt loose and slightly leaking too. being down on fluid because of the leaks and it was at about 25,000 since the last change, I decided to go ahead and change fluid and filter which has just 3 Phillips screws holding it on. The older transmissions like this one has a 5 mm allen drain plug on the torque converter, same as the pan, drain the converter. I used a 3/8 drive allen/hex socket and wrench, a 1/4 in drive 5 mm socket will probably be used where a 3/8 won't fit and eliminating the need for a wrench.. so I go to put the pan on with a new gasket of course. torqued the 6 pan bolts to 8 nm with a 13mm socket, took it for test drive, come back and it leaks. I thought maybe I didn't get it tight enough, so little by little I torqued it down up to 10nm and it leaked. so before ordering a new pan and gasket, I tried backing off on what I had already done and re-torqued to 8 nm, low in behold it doesn't leak. why it didn't take the first time is beyond me. something to do if you have the same problem. changing transmission fluid and filter is normally fairly easy. don't use any rags to clean the pan that leaves lint. be extra careful on clean.... after a long drive it leaked a little again, new pan and gasket coming. darn

 

The jury is out still. I get the new pan and gasket. I did things a bit different this time around. I drained the pan the night before into a nice clean bucket and covered it so something wouldn't get into while waiting. remember it's new fluid. I put the plug back in then waited a few hours and drained the pan again. I did this twice. The lower internal parts of the transmission are submerged in the fluid. So if you don't do this, when you take off the pan it will be very messy because of all the fluid dripping off the transmission and there's quite a lot. I'd say about a pint. It was alot nicer waiting overnight. There are tabs on the pan that supposedly go up against the flanges on the getriebe (transmission/gearbox) to keep you from over tightening. I ran the tabs on the pan up close to the getriebe and took her for a test drive for leaks and warmed up the seal. I come back and there's no leaks. I torqued it to a little less than the 8nm torque specs, take it for a drive, come back and it still leaks. So I tried backing off the pan again, this time I run the pan tabs to where they touch the transmission and tighten a 1/2 turn. so far no leak. seems you have to drive over 10 miles before it leaks. It's nuts, It should be an easy install. Maybe my torque wrench is off?? It seems pretty close to my old pointer type wrench. Anyway, I think doing it by sight and feel in this case may be the better way to go. we'll see.... it still leaks. On closer inspection, it could be a shift rod seal on the drivers side, might have started because of me replacing the linkage bushing, and there maybe a crack in the casing around the right rear pan bolt. the previous owner or someone before me put what looks like liquid steel or JB Weld on the casing, which may have worked if not for the pressure from the pan bolt. the more torque, the more it leaks at that bolt. I know a guy really good at welding alloy. If the transmission has to come out to replace the shift rod seal and to check the casing, I'm throwing in the towel and taking it to my go to guy, it requires a lift, too heavy for me. I suppose I could get a transmission jack. If I was 10 years younger maybe

 

well I messed up. when I replaced the shift modulator I thought I had messed up because it wasn't leaking before I replaced it and it was after. I pulled it and seen that the o-ring was ok. I put it back in with another seal and saw the overload switch and the banjo fittings were leaking slightly and replaced the overload and tightened the fittings. still leaked. replaced the pan gasket twice and pan once. still leaked. I thought the shift linkage seal was bad and thought maybe the transmission case was cracked where I found some sealant at the back right corner. I gave up and took it to my go to guy in Coos Bay. as it turned out the second time I put in the modulator I messed up the o-ring. So the biggest leak was coming from the modulator and running completely around the transmission to the opposite side of the tranny dripping as well as at the modulator. one of the banjo fittings was still leaking because the two seal washers were both to the inside of the fitting instead of one to the inside and one to the outside. there were no cracks it the casing, thank heaven. why someone would put a sealant at that back bolt is beyond me. I didn't have to pull the transmission which was a plus. anyway it's fixed. I had them replace the front cracked shift linkage bushing while they had it. The transmission will not shift properly if one falls out, it can be dangerous with both missing. make sure you check or have them checked the next time you have her serviced. hopefully all this will be a help for someone down the road.

 

Curious, what did your tech charge to replace the shift linkage bushings? I imagine it is done from a lift which I don't have and I'm too old to climb under. My local shop, both good and costly, wants $90. I'm losing my will to provide financial support.

 

that sounds reasonable for the bushings. my charge also included fixing my screw-up and buying a new modulator just to get the o-ring I ruined the second time I installed it. my charge for fixing my goof and the education was $350. my rig is 26 years old, 147 thousand miles on it and after spending the cost of a new sl keeping it nice, I still love the car. does that make sense??? does every time I drive her when she is just right. btw, the leaky overload switch did solve the cut-out when I put my foot into it.

 

Glad they are in the ballpark on price for the bushings. I recently replaced two trunk struts. Easy enough job and eliminates headaches caused by the lid. If the aftermarket ones last as well as the originals (20 years) I won't be doing that job again should I live close to that long.