W126 quirks
#21
08-05-2013, 01:47 PM
Window Regulator problem fix.
"This is usually a $5 bugger of a piece of plastic that is on the sliding jaw."
I have made a replacement from 1 inch x 1/8 inch thick aluminum bar stock I picked up at Home Depot. (This fits perfectly into the channel attached to the bottom of the glass))
You have to make a rectangular piece about the same length as the plastic piece. Counter sink a 1/2 inch (approx) hole 1/32" deep in the center then drill 1/8 inch hole through the center of your counter sunk hole. Now from the bottom center of your rectangle (long side) saw a 1/8" slot to the center of the small hole. The object is to allow for the holes to match the rivet the is welded into the arm of the regulator (sliding Jaw). There is a spring washer on that rivet so when you slide the aluminum part you just made the spring washer will push it toward the rivet head thus preventing it from coming off. The best thing with this fix is that you do not have to remove any of the window mechanism from the door just grease the part and channel liberally. I have mine working now for at least 15 years. Noodles
"This is usually a $5 bugger of a piece of plastic that is on the sliding jaw."
I have made a replacement from 1 inch x 1/8 inch thick aluminum bar stock I picked up at Home Depot. (This fits perfectly into the channel attached to the bottom of the glass))
You have to make a rectangular piece about the same length as the plastic piece. Counter sink a 1/2 inch (approx) hole 1/32" deep in the center then drill 1/8 inch hole through the center of your counter sunk hole. Now from the bottom center of your rectangle (long side) saw a 1/8" slot to the center of the small hole. The object is to allow for the holes to match the rivet the is welded into the arm of the regulator (sliding Jaw). There is a spring washer on that rivet so when you slide the aluminum part you just made the spring washer will push it toward the rivet head thus preventing it from coming off. The best thing with this fix is that you do not have to remove any of the window mechanism from the door just grease the part and channel liberally. I have mine working now for at least 15 years. Noodles
#22
02-03-2017, 07:25 AM
Your original message is very helpful. Thank you.
I have a W126, its
INJECTION PUMP - MERCEDES-BENZ (603-070-32-01-80)
Mercedes 350 SDL 1991 automobile? It has 111000 miles on it.
The injection pump was just taken off by the Mercedes Dealer and reattached after a complete check by an authorized Bosch Shop in Fort Lauderdale. The shop works on all kinds of Diesel Pumps. Why was this done?
Long story, but minor leaks were noted at the base of delivery valves 1 and 3. Mercedes wanted to put on a new pump, but this was not available. They then told me to take it to some private mechanic to replace the wahser and O rings in these delivery valves. I did. and the all troubles stated with the car, with severe idling shake and black smoke through the tail pipe. The car was running somoothly before all this.
took it back to the dealer and they agreed to take it out for me, and allow their mechanic to drive 30 minutes to the repair shop of the injection pump, where it was rebuilt. Cost $1200. Total bill from Merceds $3300.
Now 2 days ago, the young mechanic and I took a drive around the dealership. The car starts smoothly, and runs smoothly, and the enhgine does not vibrate at all, and there is no smoke in the tail pipe.
But, at stop lights the entire car rocks up and down gently, as if you are being craddled in your mother's lap. It is a slow up and down bounce in line with the runiing of the engine, and disppears as you rev up...
He took it inside the shop to 'adjust' the rpms and then said he wanted to keep it another day to check something.
Yesterday I got a call stating that the problem could be a 'streched timing chain' or ' faulty spray' in the fuel injectors. To correct both of these problems the cost would be $2600.
Help please.
What is going on?
What should I do?
The person who refurbished the original pump informed me that this car's pump does not have any mechanical sliding adjustment feature because of the electronic features.
Over the years I have always had it serviced at Mercedes, and had no problems with the car. This included timely oil and 2 filters changes.
Te car shuts off smoothly, without any shake.
I have a W126, its
INJECTION PUMP - MERCEDES-BENZ (603-070-32-01-80)
Mercedes 350 SDL 1991 automobile? It has 111000 miles on it.
The injection pump was just taken off by the Mercedes Dealer and reattached after a complete check by an authorized Bosch Shop in Fort Lauderdale. The shop works on all kinds of Diesel Pumps. Why was this done?
Long story, but minor leaks were noted at the base of delivery valves 1 and 3. Mercedes wanted to put on a new pump, but this was not available. They then told me to take it to some private mechanic to replace the wahser and O rings in these delivery valves. I did. and the all troubles stated with the car, with severe idling shake and black smoke through the tail pipe. The car was running somoothly before all this.
took it back to the dealer and they agreed to take it out for me, and allow their mechanic to drive 30 minutes to the repair shop of the injection pump, where it was rebuilt. Cost $1200. Total bill from Merceds $3300.
Now 2 days ago, the young mechanic and I took a drive around the dealership. The car starts smoothly, and runs smoothly, and the enhgine does not vibrate at all, and there is no smoke in the tail pipe.
But, at stop lights the entire car rocks up and down gently, as if you are being craddled in your mother's lap. It is a slow up and down bounce in line with the runiing of the engine, and disppears as you rev up...
He took it inside the shop to 'adjust' the rpms and then said he wanted to keep it another day to check something.
Yesterday I got a call stating that the problem could be a 'streched timing chain' or ' faulty spray' in the fuel injectors. To correct both of these problems the cost would be $2600.
Help please.
What is going on?
What should I do?
The person who refurbished the original pump informed me that this car's pump does not have any mechanical sliding adjustment feature because of the electronic features.
Over the years I have always had it serviced at Mercedes, and had no problems with the car. This included timely oil and 2 filters changes.
Te car shuts off smoothly, without any shake.
#23
06-07-2017, 03:18 PM
Fuse listing
Do you have a listing for the 2 fuse boxes under the hood of my wife's 2004 SL500? Does anybody?
Also, W/S washer pump came on all by itself and pumped me dry before I located the fuse. Any idea why this happened and what can I do to fix this? Is there a relay or? Thank you. Great listing!
Also, W/S washer pump came on all by itself and pumped me dry before I located the fuse. Any idea why this happened and what can I do to fix this? Is there a relay or? Thank you. Great listing!
#24
06-13-2017, 06:07 PM
If anyone is looking for DIY tech articles on the W126 platform, please take a look at the link below. Each article includes step-by-step guides. Hope that you all find this helpful!
Mercedes-Benz S-Class W126 (1981-1991) Technical Articles
Mercedes-Benz S-Class W126 (1981-1991) Technical Articles
#26
06-15-2017, 03:01 PM
No problem at all, glad to help out. We have many tech articles dedicated to various MBs, let me know if you have any questions and I'd be happy to point you to the relevant article.
#27
09-06-2019, 11:51 PM
Great article and very complete. I have Three cars & Two motorcycles---all cars are 1980's Mercedes , one BMW (carb/ non fuel inj.) and a crotch rocket Suziki 1,100 cc.. My Question(s) where do I place that grease ($100.00 can) on my sunroofs? One tilting and one nt.
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