1999 E320 – 2105844917

Prior issues:

1. While driving the car jerks while the gears are changing into 2nd and 3rd. I have an automatic transmission.

2. Recent buzzing sound coming from over head light compartment. Comes on in position two while starting car. Check bulbs and both look okay.

2. Coming out of a car wash or after pouring rain the engine mutters and runs rough until it dries.

3. Chronic Air Mass Flow Sensor replacement every year. Seems weird to me. I was told that there is a less expensive alternative by replacing a component of the sensor as opposed to the entire unit. MB mechanic stated I have the type that must replace the entire unit. Is this accurate?

Current issue:

Two weeks ago the check engine light came on. Codes found P0170, P0304, and 052 in DM and HFM Modules for self-adaptation at lower partial load, and misfire at Cyl #4. MB mechanic stated the Air Mass Flow Sensor needed replacing. This is a chronic problem every year around this time before my emission inspection. I changed the spark plugs on my own.

Check engine light disappeared after repairs, but the jerks are still present. One week later, it rained for about a half hour and the engine muttered as usual and ran rough until it dried. Check engine light reappeared during this episode.

Two days later the key hesitated to come out of the ignition. I changed keys thinking the first key was worn out or something. Got into the car the next morning turned the ignition … car started as usual and it does start now. Proceeded to put the gear stick in (R) reverse and the gear stick will not move out of park. Tried to pull the key out of the ignition and it would not come out.

I read some other threads on the Key Stuck in the Ignition and Stuck in Park but have never seen both problems at the same time. Tried some of the suggested processes of elimination to diagnosis it myself.

a. Try pushing the brake pedal harder than normal when you need to move out of Park.
b. Try pushing the emergency brake down, then pedal brake, then move the steering wheel.

Tried both and nothing worked.

What’s working:

Car starts and all electronics function.
Brake lights come on when the brakes are pushed.
Steering wheel moves, locks and unlocks normally.

Did manage to get the key out once while turning it several times. Became inspired afterwards and put it back in hoping all is well ... Key stuck again.

Any repairs advice and diagrams especially of the module compartment that houses the relay module would be great.

Thanks
Sean

 

I wrote a long reply on this but it got lost when I sent it to the server.
I will reply again in the morning.
Please try to add anything further that you can to your description.
Mileage, Model, Service History etc.

Stuart.

 

Stuart,

Thanks for the reply. Additional details:

1996 E320 - 4 door coupe, 232,000 miles

History:

Purchased in 2001 at 86,000 miles
Water Pump ’04
Two weeks later – changed spark plugs, cable plug, suppressor P, vacuum line
Air Mass Flow Sensor – Annually
Oil Changes every 4 months – change to synthetic ‘04

Has a leak in head gasket – MB mechanic states to watch.

 

You need to clean your shift mech,diy here or search on mbworld.org or benzworld.org w210 forums.Maf clean it,before replacing it with crc maf cleaner.diy also on benzworld.org w210 diy section.If that doesn't work the insert is avail for a 99 e320 at germanstar.net for 127 bucks..you need to run the car and do a water test to find where the water is getting into the system.If it is going in thru a leak in the intake that is most likely the cause of both the failing mafs and the stumble and poor running around water issues.
Poor shift,have you ever changed the trans fluid and filter?It is not really life time fluid like the mercedes said it was.If you have that many miles and have not changed both you are about 150,000 miles past due!!!!!!
The buzz is either from the dome bulb when it slowly dims out or the interiour temp sensor is is located in that little lack vented plastic round thing up next to the dome light,it has a fan inside of it to pull the air in to sample the temp of the inside cockpit area,easy to replace,and part is at autohausaz.com.
p0304 is the code for the #4cylinder misfire,check the plug wires are pushed on firmly,if water is getting in there it would also be a cause of the poor running after water exposure.
lots of diy's on benzworld
get a code reader at harborfreight tools either online or if you have one nearby.$39 centec #94169 that way you can read your own codes and emmisions ready status.You have a harbor freight tools in atlanta bells ferry rd I think.
lastly get a different mechanic,he is fleecing your wallet if he has failed to do these simple tests or has not tried them or can't locate them,you either need to learn to do them yourself or go to a better indie shop.
good luck,
ohlord
and lastly for now,you aren't running a k/n filter are you?if so it is killing your mafs..........yearly

 

Hi,
Ohlord has provided some very useful information. heres a bit more from me.

Key Stuck in Ignition Switch. This is because the gear selector is not (or at least it thinks it isn't) in Park.

Selector stuck in Park. This is because the selector safety solenoid has not been released. Usual cause is the brake light switch but maybe the earth on the selector mechanism is poor/intermittent and this MAY also be linked to the key stuck in ignition and poor shift quality.

Interior light area buzz. Likely also attributed to some poor/intermittant earth connection which may be common with the gearchange selector mechanism / module. Need to look at wiring diagram which i don't have to hand. earth is likely on tunnel under centre console near gear selector or behind dash/radio.

Poor change quality. 232k miles. Not bad. Is the trans oil level correct? You need to buy a dipstick to check this plus follow the correct procedure including oil temp. As Ohlord states when was oil changed? A change at 100 to 150k can do no harm and certainly at 230+k it may do a lot of good BUT IMHO only use MB oil although it is ridiculously expensive. It has something non standard in it. i wish i knew what! When you change the oil you should drop the pan, inspect for debris, clean the pan and change the filter. You may also choose to drain the Torque Converter since it holds as much oil as the pan.

CEL Check Engine Light illuminates when the engine ECU determines that emmissions have or are about to be compromised. If you have a misfire this WILL (or at least SHOULD) turn the CEL ON. So why do you have a misfire?

Basically a 101 things could cause this but recognising mileage I would go for plug lead / coil especially since the engine is sensitive to water spray. Inspect plugs. Are they all the same colour especially your No4. If 4 is different you must ask why? If you move the coil packs, plug lead and plugs Bank to Bank you may discover the problem / different colour plug either moves, or not, with the change. This will help refine what is wrong.

However a key question is whether you are USING oil. O2 sensors don't like oil and this MAY be linked to the engines liking for MAFS. Since you are changing the oil so frequently you may be masking the consumption since Min to Max on the dipstick may be as much as 2 quarts. Oil consumption greater than Quart/1000mile MAYBE your problem. You seem to be doing about 5000 miles per oil change=3 months.

Have you inspected the tips of the O2 sensors?

What sort of MAF has your mechanic been fitting. GENUINE MB? or some after market lookalike. i.e. Did it come from a MB dealer or somewhere else. The lookalike parts look the same but they do not perform the same especially when other components are getting near to there limit. The correct sensor is made by BOSCH and has a Bosch Pt No on the sensor. The housing has both MB and Bosch numbers on it but these mean nothing since it is the (removeable) sensor that does the work. You need a special security Torx bit to remove the sensor from the housing. (A few dollars from most auto shops)

Either buy or get a shop to get your Long Term Fuel Trim LTFT and STFT (Short) readings. Not sure if these are available on a 1996 model but would have expected so. They are definitely available on the same M112 engine (3.2 V6 I assume) in 1999. Likewise what is the voltage coming off the O2 sensors?
These readings will help to determine why you need to keep changing the MAF.

Come back when you have followed up some of this info.

Stuart.

 

Ohlord and Stuart,

I appreciate the insite. I will change the brake light switch and clean the shifter to see if I get results.

Answers to a few questions:

I appreciate the insight. I will change the brake light switch and clean the shifter to see if I get results.

Answers to a few questions:

I have addedtrans fluid in the past but not the filter.
I am using synthetic oil.
Not using K&N Filter.
The mechanic is an MB dealer and they use all OEM parts ... I presume. I can check the MAF to see if its an OEM part. Where is it located?

Are there any accessible under the hood diagrams?

Thanks again.

Sean

 

Benzworld.org w210 forum
http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
http://w210.pietrzyk.net/

Have fun!!!!!!!!!!
ohlord

 

Changed the brake light sensor and nothing changed with the problems of having the key stuck and the gears stuck in park. Most threads I have read relate the brake light sensor to dim brake lights after seeing a ABS error on the dash.

I have the gear selector console open - cleaned outthe earth inside. Not sure what I am seeing. Still searching for adiagram or DIY instructions on determing whats broken.

Could it be related to the shift lockhaving problems, the electronic selector lever module mechanisms being damaged or the ignition switch?

Thanks,

Sean

 

This is what I see in the gear shift console.



[IMG]local://upfiles/7953/5072D28DA61F4A5186E4EA0B5254EF56.jpg[/IMG]

 

You need to be looking at the electrics associated with the selector lever rather than the mechanical parts.

Stuart