Please Help:

Due to a bad tank of gas that was 80% water, I am cleaning the entire fuel injection system of my 87' 260e. It uses the Bosch CIS K-Jetronic System. I was doing fine until I realised that there is a gasket between the 2 halfs of the fuel distributor. I cannot find this gasket for sale anywhere! Would it be safe to reuse it, or could I just use some kind of gasket maker to supplement?

 

wow! [X(]i never do that is disassembly the fuel distributor ! the gasket will be a problem. the gas will leaking out .you can try to use the old one .but in care of tie up evenly.regular gasket paper will work just a short times. i will not do it again,
next time to clean that just take the hose before the injector let the gas running throw it to the can and you dont need to disassembly whole thing.......

 

So, are you saying that the high-temp RTV wouldn't work, or would it? Or are you saying that cutting gasket paper is the only option I have?

 

the rubber diapghram have certain flexibility assisted by upper (regulating pressure) and lower (system pressure) springs.

opening it will damage the whole unit and will be useless unless:

you know how to calibrate. i do it with the use of gas analyzer with capability of individual cylinder detection...such as BOSCH MOT, or BEAR.
you must know the hydrocarbon emitted by each injector (also CO, CO2, and O2 for any leak).

the difference between every cylinder must not be more than 1.5 parts per milligram. too difficult and time consuming to do. sometimes even an expert cannot do the calibration well.

 

rtv/ hi temp rtvthink about is you can make a little test is put some of it in the gas ....see it can hold or melt down...
except you use the gas tank fix....
gas can melt down a lot of chemicals,and leaking with the fuel pressure will hardly to hold.....

 

Well, I put it back together anyways using the old gasket and nothing leaked at all. But now as soon as I start the car up it jumps to about 4,000 RPM's.

Could this high idle be due to the location of the plunger from the distributor? Is all I know is that there were six screws underneath the distributor that I "DID" reinstall correctly to the right ammount of turns which I had made note of during dissasembly.

Could it possibly be an air bypass problem?

 

even if you will count the turns, it will never be the same again. you open it, and there's nothing much to do inside. it's just an assembly of springs, diapraghm and plate valves.
the control piston causes the high rpm because you haven't adjusted it to basic setting. the idle speed air valve can raise the rpm too. try disconnecting and reconnecting it if there was an effect.

 

I checked the auxillary air valve, but this had virtually no effect. I thought that the location of the plunger within the unit at idle might be the problem, so I adjusted the screw that holds the plunger into the unit at its bottom. I adjusted the screw so that it was only turned into the unit 1 turn, which allowed the largest degree of plunger travel. When I started the car, the rpms climbed much more slowly to about 3,000 rpms, and after a couple of seconds, shot right back up to 4,000 rpms.

What could be the cause of this problem? I do not believe it is electrical, and the plunger cannot be given any more free travel. I am also fairly sure that there is adequate control pressure at the top of the unit. Might I just need to adjust the 6 hex screws at the bottom of the distributor that control fuel flow to the injectors? If so, which direction should I turn them in order to restrict fuel flow?

 

Update-

I messed with the screws I described in my last post and this did lower the idle to about 2,000rpms. I then screwed them in another turn and the car now does something very strange. Upon starting, it accellerates to about 2,500rpms, then slowly drops to about 500 rpms, at which point it sounds like its about to die, and then rises back up to 2,000rpms. At this point, when I step on the gas pedal, the car quickly drops rpms and sounds as if it is backfiring, and then dies.

I am curious if this could possibly be an issue with my throttle linkage, as there is a rod connected to the throttle assembly that connects to a cylindrical unit protruding from the side of the engine crankcase. (Fuel pump?) I understand that the orifices within the distributor control the flow of fuel, but I'm sure that the initial fuel pressure also plays a part in how much fuel is going to pass throught the distributor. Any advice?

(Does this sound like it is definately a fuel distributor problem, or could I have screwed something else up? The car idled fine before I started working on it, it just had bad acceleration.)

 

if you have found that the problem lies on the throttle linkage, then that's another story. i've tried to discourage you from opening that fuel distributor, but not much i can do. i have been through it in my early days, but i am wiser now to take the right steps by eliminating other possibilities first.

familiarity with the system is the first thing, and experience is the other thing... good or bad, i always learn a lot.

your case has now come to the point where you have to rely on your own decission as to what the next step should be done. all i can do now is to give you some quick idea on the system where you could possibly be now.

in your car, the upper chamber is the system pressure. the difference between the upper and lower chamber should be 1.0 bar in order to get a good mixture. your system pressure should be 5.4 bar and the control pressure is 4.4 bar. go get the gauge and check it so that you will know if the electrohydraulic valve is malfunctioning... or was the real problem is the linkage, and you have just messed with the distributor?

if the lower chamber is too low, then this produces a lower pressure difference in the metering slots (you have seen this as the smaller portion of the piston when you open it) and thus a richer mixture.

the electrohydraulic actuator controls the fuel feed to the lower chamber, and thus the lower chamber pressure is necessary in order to alter the lower chamber pressure. the fuel feed can be opened more or less by moving the valve plate. now this is being controlled by the engine control unit. you can adjust it too by removing a cover screw and adjust the allen screw inside, but you have to get the right 4.4 bar of pressure.

is your car in emergency running mode now? if you remove the control unit, does it make any difference?

is the zero position of your sensor plate is okay? i guess you didn't touch this one, and no need for me to tell you how to do it so i can save some typing which i hate most. i always give my advice short and quick because i am a lazy guy.

if there's any particular point where i can just give to you directly, please post it here so that we can share with others. the KE or CIS-E is a very complicated system that i cannot just explain all in here.

do more checking.