Hello Folks first time poster here, I've been lurking around for awhile reading / searching for general DIY. I've been having issue with the car lately and I was wandering if anyone can offer any input.

About two weeks ago my CEL came up and I drove it to Autozone to read the error code and it had two error.

P0410 Air Injection Control
P2036 Electronic Throttle Issue

I wasn’t sure how to trouble shoot myself thus I brought the car to a mechanic which replaced one of the shut off valve and the throttle valve sensor. Below is the shut off valve part number
OEM Mercedes W203 Air Injector System Shut-off Valve.
Part number: 002-140-55-60

However after driving a few days my check engine light came up again and this time it’s throwing the error code P0410 again , I brought it back to the mechanic and he told me it’s the MAF that is malfunctioning and I should change it. I didn’t allow them to fix it since I know the MAF is pretty easy to change. I’ve seen it here on the forums.

Instead of ordering the parts and change it right away I figured I'll give it a try and have the MAF cleaned. I taken the MAF apart and clean it with a MAF cleaner from Autozone and I haven’t had a chance to drive the car around to check for the CEL light after I have reset it prior to cleaning the valve ( I live in DC and we got 24in of snow this weekend). I did notice some oil residue on the pipes as shown on the pictures below. Is it normal? Anyone on the forum have any advice for me? I’ve attached pictures of the MAF and also the pipes in the car.





Also I have read everywhere in the forum recommending buying a Bosch instead of other brands however on autohausaz .com there is only Siemens. Is this an OEM ?

Your Parts Search Returned 1 Part(s)

 

First of all let me tell you how I feel about the 28" snow you had in the past few days. My brother-in-law was supposed to be last Friday and is still there as he's had 3 flight cancellations already!
I'm curious, why did you have those parts changed? Did the mechanic told you that those parts are bad? The way I see it is that the scanner only point to a general area that may be faulty but didn't specify the parts that were changed were bad. As an example, if the scanner indicate a misfire what would you change? The spark plug, wire, or coil? The scanner would also have a rich mixture code, would you also change the O2 sensor? My point is that the parts that were changed may not be bad at all and I wouldn't change (or even clean!) the MAF, this is a very delicate part and could be damaged from the cleaner.
I'm just giving you my 2 cents but if my doctor told me I need surgery, I would definitely get a second opinion before I get it done. Just out of curiosity, did the mechanic run a scanner before changing the parts to see what their values were and see if they are out of limits?

Alan.

 

I had those part replaced because I was 'told' by the mechanic that it was failing occasionally and thus it was giving the Check Engine Light. I know the mechanic did had use a STAR diagnostic on the car when he told me the problems.

We are getting more snow again today... 10-20" by the time it's done on Wed night. I'm sick of it.

 

Fortunately my bro-in-law got one of the few available flights out of DC yesterday! I heard the streets are still quite empty as those that don't need to get out of the house don't.
I realize that the mechanic use the scanner for reading codes but did he use it to read the data? This could be important as it would tell you if the part is bad or if something else that is bad is giving it a false reading. Something like this I would rather pay a dealer an hour's diagnostic time than an independent garage, this way you're sure what the problem is. When I was in Maryland my sister's 560's SRS light came on and I traced it down to the main box, it was $2300! Just to make sure that it is indeed the right part that is bad I paid the dealer $60 to confirm my findings. It was indeed the main controller that was bad, but at least I had the assurance that my sister won't be paying $2300 needlessly.......Just my 2 cents.
Hope it doesn't flood when all the snow melts......

Cheers,
Alan.

 

ANDREW79 ,

in my experience for that code it is most of the time the switch over valve.
in your pic behind the throttle valve you will see a black pod with a vacuum line on it , just follow line and you will come to a switch over valve that is electrical and has vacuum lines on top and bottom , this valve is most of the time the problem. i have seen the Mass Air Meter cause many problems but not this one

 

Icebreaker : Another 8" of snow today and the dumb snow truck plower guy plowed all of the street snow into the end of my street and block my garage. Basically when I open the garage door , I have about 4 foot of snow in front of it. HOA is going to get a earful from me. I might try to bring the car into MB and get them run some test when the CEL comes again . I reset it after cleaning the MAF but I didnt had a chance to drive it long enough to make sure the CEL is completely off and not throwing error code.

MB-TECH-38: You wont happen to have a part number for that so I can look it up and see how it looks like ? I just had the Air Injector System Shut-off Valve replaced when the code first came up and I can't seem to find the valve today. I'm sorry I'm really stupid when it comes to dealing car engines.

 

Yes I heard from my sister that it had snowed some more, wow when it rains it pours doesn't it?!! Sorry to hear that. Hopefully when you finally get out you find that your problem is fixed. Keep in touch!

Alan.

 

202-540-14-97 change over / switch over valve , sorry can drag picture

Jerry

 

Just an update , the snow is starting to melt now and I'm going to take car out for a couple of drives around and see whether I'm still getting any error code . I had reset it prior to the snow but my garage was blocked by 4 foot of snow and I didnt get around to plowing it. Hopefully the problem will go away.



Jerry : I'll look for the valve today and see whether there is any damaged to it. I found it online for $40 bucks so I might change just to try my luck.

 

Replace your air filter and MAF.Do not reset CEL.If it goes off in 2 or 3 starts then you're good to go.But try free diagnostics from autozone first.