Battery problems on my C230 kompressor sport
#1
04-01-2012, 03:53 PM
Battery problems on my C230 kompressor sport
My apologies if this has been covered in another thread, but I couldn't find anything about it elsewhere.
I have a 2000 C230 Kompressor Sport, 64K miles, and accidentally left my lights on all night Thursday and killed the battery. So Friday I had the battery replaced. Now, since then(saturday & sunday), the car drains the battery as it runs, over the course of 10 min. or so, and the car loses all power and stops. No battery warning lights, but I've been getting the BAS/ESP and SRS lights since the battery change. I know those are common after losing power, but after a bit of running I also get the ABS and then check engine lights (which I assume are coming on from low voltage). I took it to the auto parts store and after much testing they say it's the alternator. Is that possible? Could leaving the headlights on and killing the battery have an effect on the alternator as well? It was working fine before...
I was wondering if something else could be draining the power?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...
I have a 2000 C230 Kompressor Sport, 64K miles, and accidentally left my lights on all night Thursday and killed the battery. So Friday I had the battery replaced. Now, since then(saturday & sunday), the car drains the battery as it runs, over the course of 10 min. or so, and the car loses all power and stops. No battery warning lights, but I've been getting the BAS/ESP and SRS lights since the battery change. I know those are common after losing power, but after a bit of running I also get the ABS and then check engine lights (which I assume are coming on from low voltage). I took it to the auto parts store and after much testing they say it's the alternator. Is that possible? Could leaving the headlights on and killing the battery have an effect on the alternator as well? It was working fine before...
I was wondering if something else could be draining the power?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...
#2
04-02-2012, 12:52 PM
Your post-battery change problems certainly point to the alternator. Was the 'new' battery installed correctly? A faulty install could fry the alternator.
It may just be coincidence that they both failed at the same time.
BTW, you shouldn't have to replace a battery after an overnight drain unless it was old or failing beforehand.
It may just be coincidence that they both failed at the same time.
BTW, you shouldn't have to replace a battery after an overnight drain unless it was old or failing beforehand.
#4
04-09-2012, 09:44 PM
To answer some of your questions, yes the alternator can be part of the problem. So let's get the basics down on the battery, alternator and voltage regulator. The battery is used to start the engine. This is why batteries are rated by cranking amps. Amperage or Amps can be describes as the amount of current flow or in simple terms muscle power. Once the engine is started the battery does not provide an electrical source to any part of the vehicle in order for the vehicle to operate. The alternator is the component that provides electrical source for vehicle (electronic fuel injection [fuel pump], all electricals). The alternator is an AC generator of sort that runs off the crankshaft as such varies with engine speed. The wavelength of AC current is not usable, however a set of diodes in a bridge essentially smooth the AC wavelength into a DC direct current that is usable.
So if the alternator is not working or partially working you can verify this by turning on your headlights with the engine running, then press the accelerator and watch if the headlights dim each time you rev the engine. If this happens, you are most likely running off your battery as you mentioned and the alternator is not powering the electricals.
Since you have 64k miles, the alternator brushes that contact the armature my be worn out or the springs on the brushes are weak. Another problem may be the windings on the coil are fried. These windings are made of thin cooper wire. You can actually teardown the alternator yourself and change the brushes and springs. The diodes are most likely embedded in Alternator case.
Another contributor may be the voltage regulator,VR. The VR does several things: regulates output voltage. Remember the alternator is running off of the crankshaft thru the belts and pulley. Because the engine speed varies with throttle input, the alternator turns accordingly as well. It is the job of the VR to maintain 115 volts for the vehicle's electricals, including the ignition sys, fuel system, lights,.accessories, etc... The VR has a reversed current relay (I think) that supposed to de-energize when the battery voltage is equal or greater than the output of the alternator. Remember after the car is started, the alternator does a trickle charge of the battery through the Reverse current relay. Typically, the reverse current relay is part of the VR (voltage regulator ) and most likely solid state in today's electronics.
Summary:
1. Check the brushes and springs on the alternator. There's probably 3 or 4 bolts to open the alternator... Of course you have to remove the alternator. No timing issues to be concern with when removing the alternator.
2. Replace Voltage Regulator and the Reverse Current Relay, these may be comprised of one unit. I would check with the MB dealer and ask them where it is located.
3. After step 1 and 2, replace the battery.
Remember a simple test right now that you can do in the existing condition. If you can start the car, and turn on the headlights, while pressing down on the accelerator (in park), have someone verify if the headlight get brighter with the acceleration of the throttle.
You can replace the alternator easily enough or if you have your alternator overhauled. Brushes and springs are cheap. A new rotor would be more expensive that is if the coil is fried. Look for a re-manufactured alternator, typically good as new but cheaper.
As far as the VR is concerned ask the MB dealer to.show you where it is located.. I would guess it is under the hood, mounted near the firewall or fuse box.
So if the alternator is not working or partially working you can verify this by turning on your headlights with the engine running, then press the accelerator and watch if the headlights dim each time you rev the engine. If this happens, you are most likely running off your battery as you mentioned and the alternator is not powering the electricals.
Since you have 64k miles, the alternator brushes that contact the armature my be worn out or the springs on the brushes are weak. Another problem may be the windings on the coil are fried. These windings are made of thin cooper wire. You can actually teardown the alternator yourself and change the brushes and springs. The diodes are most likely embedded in Alternator case.
Another contributor may be the voltage regulator,VR. The VR does several things: regulates output voltage. Remember the alternator is running off of the crankshaft thru the belts and pulley. Because the engine speed varies with throttle input, the alternator turns accordingly as well. It is the job of the VR to maintain 115 volts for the vehicle's electricals, including the ignition sys, fuel system, lights,.accessories, etc... The VR has a reversed current relay (I think) that supposed to de-energize when the battery voltage is equal or greater than the output of the alternator. Remember after the car is started, the alternator does a trickle charge of the battery through the Reverse current relay. Typically, the reverse current relay is part of the VR (voltage regulator ) and most likely solid state in today's electronics.
Summary:
1. Check the brushes and springs on the alternator. There's probably 3 or 4 bolts to open the alternator... Of course you have to remove the alternator. No timing issues to be concern with when removing the alternator.
2. Replace Voltage Regulator and the Reverse Current Relay, these may be comprised of one unit. I would check with the MB dealer and ask them where it is located.
3. After step 1 and 2, replace the battery.
Remember a simple test right now that you can do in the existing condition. If you can start the car, and turn on the headlights, while pressing down on the accelerator (in park), have someone verify if the headlight get brighter with the acceleration of the throttle.
You can replace the alternator easily enough or if you have your alternator overhauled. Brushes and springs are cheap. A new rotor would be more expensive that is if the coil is fried. Look for a re-manufactured alternator, typically good as new but cheaper.
As far as the VR is concerned ask the MB dealer to.show you where it is located.. I would guess it is under the hood, mounted near the firewall or fuse box.
#5
04-09-2012, 09:49 PM
You can verify some of the comments by googling: What is an alternator? What is a reverse current relay? Headlights get brighter when pressing accelerator.
You can Google the "c230 kompressor Voltage Regulator" and you will see what the unit looks like. I looks solid state.
You can Google the "c230 kompressor Voltage Regulator" and you will see what the unit looks like. I looks solid state.
#6
04-09-2012, 09:55 PM
Sorry did I explain that a sticking or bad reverse current relay can drain a brand new battery? When the Reverse current relay remains closed, it provides a path to ground for the battery and that is why a new battery can drain when the engine is turned off. The reverse current relay closes to trifle charge the battery after engine start and then supposed to open or release when the voltage on the battery exceeds the alternator output.
#8
02-06-2013, 11:09 PM
cranking amps Low on My 2005 C230 K!
I took my 2005 C230 K to the shop for routine maintenance and they told me that the Battery Cranking Amps were below the OEM level and that I needed to change my battery. I have no warning lights showing on my MB and the Battery does seem to crank approprietly. Is this common? And do I need to change the battery? Any information will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
#9
02-07-2013, 01:25 PM
Batteries get a little weaker every time they are used. If you are having no problems I wouldn't do anything at this time. However, it may not hurt to hook up the car to a good battery tender/charger to ensure you have the most cranking power when you need it.
I would watch the battery closely and at the first sign of real trouble I would get a new one. Age can aslo slowly kill a battery especially if the car is not driven a lot. If the battery is more than four years old it won't (typically) last for four more years.
My retired C230 Sport Coupe had two batteries over 10 years and only 28,000mi.
Warning lights (as I recall) don't come on to tell you if the battery is getting weak.
Some other system lights may start appearing on the dash; i.e. clock may start to do funny things, ABS lights may come on etc that can usually be traced to a failing battery.
GL
I would watch the battery closely and at the first sign of real trouble I would get a new one. Age can aslo slowly kill a battery especially if the car is not driven a lot. If the battery is more than four years old it won't (typically) last for four more years.
My retired C230 Sport Coupe had two batteries over 10 years and only 28,000mi.
Warning lights (as I recall) don't come on to tell you if the battery is getting weak.
Some other system lights may start appearing on the dash; i.e. clock may start to do funny things, ABS lights may come on etc that can usually be traced to a failing battery.
GL
