My 95 e320 leaks some oil from the front engine cover. It isn't too bad, but I don't like it and I would like it sealed up. My mechanic said it would cost about $1000.00 and he called the leak very slight. I get the impression that he doesn't want to do the job. Is this hard to do? Will it leak again once it is put back together? Why is my mechanic so reluctant to do this? Should I try to do it myself?

Also my water pump leaks a little. Should I get this replaced? I was thinking it would have to come off if I take off the front cover anyway.

 

More than likely your leak is coming from between the upper and lower timing covers.

I've circled the gasket that has this problem (See Pic).

This gasket "can be" a pain to get sealed properly (which could be why he's reluctant to do it) and I'm sure everyone has their tricks to sealing it. So if you're going to do it yourself buy 2 of them, that way when/if you screw 1 of them up you have the spare right there in hand to replace it. (while everything is apart)

As far as replacing it yourself goes, it really depends upon how mechanically inclined you are.

It's not as trivial as changing spark plugs.

If you do decide to do it yourself make sure you have a good inspection mirror and after you install the upper timing cover, make sure you REALLY check out the seal good to make sure that it hasn't rolled or pinched. This will save a lot of time of having to redo everything if you discover it's messed up. Because if it's rolled or pinched it WILL leak.

If you want more info, please let us know.

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As far as the water pump goes. Fix it ASAP ! You "DO NOT" want to overheat the engine, as you'll be in for a BIG expense.

Here's the instructions -
Water Pump: Removal and Installation -- (Labor Guide States 5.9 hours)
- Raise hood to vertical position.
- Disconnect ground cable at battery.
- Drain coolant at engine and radiator.
- Take air scoop off the air filter and remove.
- Remove tensioning device for V-belt.
- Remove power steering pump with lines connected and position to the side.
^ Tightening Torque: 25 Nm (18.5 ft lbs)
- Detach coolant hoses.
- Unplug ignition cable from bracket.
- Remove bolts (263, 264) at the crankcase. (see pic)
^ Tightening Torque: 25 Nm (18.5 ft lbs)
- Remove coolant pump (265). (see pic)
- Install in reverse order, paying attention to the installation notes listed below.
- Check for leaks.

INSTALLATION NOTES:
- Replace coolant pump seal, pump body to engine block.
- The thermostat must be installed such that the ball valve is positioned at the highest point.
- Replace coolant thermostat O-ring.

Hope this helps

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Good explanation on the seal.
I would add some caution about leaky water pump. I understand that coolant leaks thru front seal?
In such a case coolant is washing away bearing grease and pump is not going to last long.
In the past I was replacing the seals as soon as I could see any drip to save the pump.
Now most of the time you can't buy the seal separately and have to buy whole pump anyway.
You better get a new pump right away.

 

$1000 seems a little too much. This really isnt a hard job. It usually pays the mechanice about 2 hours to do. So your looking at no more than $300 for labor. Plus you need a bottle of coolant, front cover seal kit with valve cover seal and a can of brake cleaner to clean up the mess. you will need a special tool if you intend on doing the job yourself. its a tool used to remove a Pin.