I'm planning on replacing the muffler header pipe that's connected by nuts (which I believe are copper) to 3 studs coming from the turbo in the engine compartment. I'm testing the fasteners connecting the header to make sure they can be removed easily before buying the header. I'm leary of applying too much torque as I'm not sure whether the turbo studs can resist it. I've applied some liquid wrench I had sitting around and then applied a moderate amount of force to the nuts, but no movement. In fact, it felt like the nuts would be rounded before moving. Are these turbo studs generally resistant to high torque? Is there a better loosening lubricant than liquid wrench? I've included two photos with the air cleaner assembly removed showing the nut connected to the turbo stud.

 

I presently need to remove Turbo and have same question. I have 2 nuts on top of Turbo and about 8 connection turbo main section. Correction, I have bolts not nuts to remove. Getting to old

dkoug

 

Hello, This is always an issue auto mechanics and millwrights need to deal with. I am a millwright and know some methods that work well. WD 40 is a great product but marginal for this job. Depending on access and what you have. First is splitting the nut with a long sharp chisel and hammer. Next is a tool available called a nut splitter. Access again? My preferred method is a small heating tip on my oxygen / acetylene torch set. Heat to dark red and use a 6 point, socket and be very aware of fire. I have a couple of sq feet of white glass fire blanket that I soak with water first and place as needed. Have your tools ready and a fire extinguisher handy. The nuts heat and cool fast. Finally if you are really good with a Dremmel tool if you have access you can cut the nut off the stud. Good luck Allan

 

daemdaem: I'm not going to try a torch, but that header pipe will get hot just driving the car, so maybe if I try to loosen the nut after a drive, I'll have some luck. Lately, I've had plenty of practice removing the air cleaner assembly so the pipe should still retain the heat while I remove it for access to the nut. I'll use some penetrating oil before driving, too. I wonder if PB Blaster or Kroil work better than Liquid Wrench.

 

Fair enough. I would take the air cleaner off, and drive it until the pipe is hot. That is a good start. I cannot fairly comment on any penetrant. Lets just say where I am employed we have not found one that works well on badly corroded
steel nuts and bolts. Oil gassifies at about or below the normal turbo outlet temperature, so there is a small but real fire risk. You might try applying gentle wrench pressure and striking `the nut with a hammer at the same time. Good luck Allan